Ill 



^DIRECTIONS FOR USING 

The W©iW§ Fair? ® . 



Invented and Copyrighted by O. E. PENROSE, Springleld, 111. 
March 16th, 1893. 



NOTICE — Any infringement on this copyright 

will be prosecuted to the full extent 

of the law. 



Manufacturer and Sole Owner, 

O. E. PENROSE, 



SPRINGFIELD, ILL 



/33/oy 



SPRINGFIELD PRINTING CO., 

Printers and Bookbinders, Springfield, III. 

1893. 



s 



DIRECTIONS FOR USING 

The W©iW § Fairt - • 

* • Ifat&eifn (ghaift 



Invented and Copyrighted by O. E. PENROSE, Springdeld, 111. 
March 16th, 1893. 



NOTICE — Any infringement on this copyright 

will be prosecuted to the full extent 

of the law. 



Manufacturer and Sole Owner, 

O. E. PENROSE, 

SPRINGFIELD, ILL. 



SPRIN ELD PRINTING CO., 

Printers an] Bookbinders, Springfield, III. 

1893. 






*J 



FORM OF LESSONS. 



$5.00,must be paid on first lesson, that entitles 
pupil to chart, without direction book. 

FIRST LESSON 
Consists of 

Art. 1— Drafting Back, 
Art. 2 -Rear Side form. 
Art. 3— Front Side form. 
Art. 4— Basque Front. 
Art. 5— Plain Darts for Basque . 

SECOND LESSON. 

No collection on second lesson, which consists 

of 
Art. 6— Straight Front. 

Art. 7— Throwing Bust Curve Higher. j& 
Art. 8— More Curve for Full Bust Forms. ™ 
Art 9— Making Carts smaller for Princess 

Fronts. 
Art. 10— French Darts. 

THIRD LESSON. 

$2.00 must be paid on third lesson, on receipt of 
which pupil is entitled to book of instructions. 
Art. 11— Proportioning front and rear side forms. 
Art. 12 — One dart Front. 
Art. 13— Making Back Wider at waist line, 
Art. 14— V. Back. 
Art. -15— French Back. 



FOURTH LESSON. 

No collection on fourth lesson, which consists of 

Art. 16— Bias Darts. 

Art. 17— Fronts without darts for Princess 
Basque and Jackets. 

Art. 18— Seamless Waist with shoulder seam 
only. 

FIFTH LESSON. 
No collection on fifth lesson, which consists of 
Art. 19 — Columbian Seamless Basque, copy- 
righted, 1893. 

Art. 20— The V Back Seamless Waist, copy- 
righted, 1893. 

SIXTH LESSON. Sleeves. 

$2 00 must be paid on sixth lesson and sleeve 
chart, which consists of 

Art. 1— Plain Coat Sleeve, top and under part. 

Art. 2 — Sleeve with slight fullness at top of 
shoulder. 

Art. 3.— Medium Leg O'Mutton Sleeve with 
two seams. 

- SEVENTH LESSON. 

m 

No collection on seventh lesson, which consists 
of 

Art. 4— Balloon Sleeve with two seams, plaited 
on both sides of under part, smooth fitting at 
elbow. (3 styles.) 

Art. 5— Balloon Sleeve, with two seams, ex- 
tremely large. (3 styles.) 

Art. 6— Bell Sleeve, with one seam down inside. 
(4 styles.) 

Art. 7— Bias Sleeve, with s&am on inside and 
dart at elbow. (2 styles.) 

Art. 8— Large, full Puff Sleeve, thi^e lengths 
and three widths at bottom, (making 9 styles-) 



EIGHTH LESSON. 

No collection on Eighth lesson, which consists 
of 

Art. 9— The one Seam Leg O'Mutton Sleeve, 
Balloon Sleeve and extremely large Balloon Sleeve. 
(4 styles.) 

NINTH LESSON— Skirts. 

One Dollar must be paid on Ninth Lesson and 

Skirt rule, which consists of 
Articles 1, 2, 3, and 4— Front half of Empire, 

Bell and Cornet Skirts. 
Articles 5 and 6— 5-gored skirts. (2 styles.) 
Articles 7 and 8— 5-gored skirts. (2 styles.) 
Articles 9 and 10— 9-gored skirts. (3 styles.) 

TENTH LESSON. 
No collection on tenth lesson, which consists of 
Art. 11 — Half darts, quarter darts, three quarter 
darts, and circular skirts without darts, and dif- 
ferent styles of back fullness used J n skirts. 

This makes 11 regular lessons, which (if pupils 
are dress makers and seamstresses) can be given 
in four or five lessons; on the other hand, if pupils 
are dull, these lessons very often have to be divided. 

There are a great many things to teach about 
dress cutting not explained in these directions, 
which must be taught to be properly understood, 
and my instructors are authorized to make a 
charge of $3.00 for these lessons, unless in a class 
of three or more pupils. 

Among the extras are lessons on all kinds of 



Collars.— High and low, winter and summer, 
plain and fancy. 



Yokes.— Round, square and pointed, seamless, 
bias fronts or backs, with or without shoulder and 
back seams. 

Skirts and Draperies. — For different yokes. 

Jacket Fronts.— With collar and revere all in 
one piece, with no shoulder seam in revere. 

Capes. — Of all kinds, bretelles and berthas. 

Outside draperies. — Of all kinds, seamless waists 
and basques, some without any seam whatever on 
shoulder, back, under arm or darts, open in front, 
no stretching goods on bias. 

Extra Side Form. — For large forms. 

Making back wider-Fox round shouldered forms. 

Curving side and back seams — For sway back and 
long waisted forms. 

Special Instructions — On testing pattern and 
Basting. 



Diplomas are given to every pupil that will study 
for that end. Any lady or gent holding a diploma 
filled out and signed by myself or any of my grad- 
uated instructors, can sell and teach my S3 r stem by 
writing for territory. Agents are making big 
money for this reason; the system consists of The 
World's Fair Pattern Chart, Prof Penrose's Sleeve 
Chart, and Prof. Penrose's Skirt Rule; all three 
can be sold together or either one separate, and 
there are hundreds of dress makers that want the 
sleeve chart and skirt rule and nothing else. 



The World's Fair Pattern Chart, with instrug- 
tion book, $7.00. 

Prof. Penrose's Sleeve Chart, with directions, 
$2.00. 

Prof. Penrose's Skirt Rule, $1.00. 

Free lessons on all new styles as they come out. 

Those wishing a good money makin^ business, 
please write for terms. : ' 

Address all communications to 

O. E. PENROSE, Ladies Tailor, 
Springfield, 111. 



HOW TO TAKE MEASURES. 

(Buckle strap round waist as tight as you wear 
your dresses, and push down as far as possible on 
hips.) 

"Neck Measure. 11 — Is taken inside collar, smooth. 

"Height of Bust Curve. 7 ' — Is taken from where 
neck joins body to fullest part of bust; if it is less 
than 7 inches, put it down; if 7 or more inches, pay 
no attention to it. 

"Front Length. 17 — Is taken from where neck 
joins body to bottom of strap. 

"Bust 11 — Is taken round Bust well up under 
the arms, and taken as tight as lady wants to wear 
dress. 



"Shoulder.' 1 — Is taken from side of neck to top 
of shoulder bone. Be careful not to get this 
measure too short, as the sleeve and collar will 
take a little off each side. 

" Under Arm Length. 11 — To take this measure, 
have the lady hold her arm up, take tape measure 
between thumb and first finger and place it well 
under the arm, then have the lady drop her arm 
and measure to bottom of strap. 

"Height of Bart 11 — Is taken from fullest part of 
bust to bottom of strap. 



9 

"Back Length. 11 — From prominent bone in back 
of neck to bottom of strap. In taking this measure, 
be sure and have strap pushed down as far as 
possible. 

"Hip. 11 — Around about 5 inches below strap, as 
tight as they wish to wear their dresses. 

"Skirt."— Front Length, 
Side Length, 
Back Length, 
are taken from strap to length desired. 

" Waist. 11 Take waist measure as tight as lady 
wants dress, and make one inch larger. 



SLEEVE MEASURE. 

"Elbow. 11 — Is taken around the elbow, loose 
enough for arm to bend with ease. 

"Fore Arm. 11 — Place the tape measure well up 
under the arm and measure as tight as lady wants. 

"Shoulder to Elbow. 11 — From top of shoulder to 
point of elbow, with arm bent. 



"Elbow to Hand. 11 — From point of elbow to hand, 
or as long as lady wishes sleeve. 

''Hand. 11 — Around hand, as loose as desired. 



In cutting, one-half or three-fourths of an inch 
should be allowed all around for seams, except at 
armeye and neck. First make your drafting and 
use tracer; anyone using a tracing wheel will 
never have any trouble fitting. 



10 



■ \ Art. 1 

Drafting For Back. 

Lay Chart so back edge lays straight on lining 
or pattern. Dot Back Measure A, and make mark 
at end of line, at back edge, rule up to B corner at 
top and round to neck measure C, rule line along 
D edge; before moving chart, dot Bust Measure E; 
move corner F back to end of neck line, letting D 
edge run parallel with line drawn at D edge, rule 
from corner F to shonlder measure G; move Chart, 
and place corner H at end of shoulder line, and 
lay Top Front edge of chart at dot made at E, 
rule armeye Curve; now place Corner H at end of 
armeye curve, and bottom front edge of chart at 
dot made at A, rule from H to dot, draw waist line; 
now place waist line of chart on waist line of 
pattern, and rule skirt down on both sides of 
chart. 

Art. 2. 

Rear Side Form. 

Lay chart so bottom is straight across lining or 
pattern, mark Back Measure A, rule to top corner 
B, and round to Waist Measure C; now move back 
end of waist line D to mark make at back measure 
A, rule Back Hip slope, and mark front end of 
waist line E; now move chart up and rule from 
corner F to Waist Measure G; now place Top 
Corner H at end of top line, and Front edge of 
Chart at front end of waist line, and rule clown to 
waist line; now move E line up to waist line of 
pattern, and rule Front Hip slope, completing 
Rear Side Form. 



ii 

Art. 3. 

Front Bide Form. 

Mark Under Arm Measure A, now rule to B 
Corner, round end, to Bust Measure C; move chart 
and place corner D at end of line, and rule Back 
Hip slope; before moving chart mark front end of 
waist line E; move chart, place Corner Fat Corner 
Jj of pattern, letting bottom of chart rest on mark, 
now rule from corner F to Bust Measure G; now 
place Waist line E at end of line just made, and let 
front edge of chart rest at end of line at top of 
pattern, rule front side, and Front Hip slope, com- 
pleting Front Side Form. 

Art. 4. 

Basque Front. 

Lay chart so waist line is straight across lining 
or pattern, commence to rule at neck measure A, 
rule around neck, down to Lenjth of Front B; 
before moving chart, mark neck measure C, and 
dot Bust measure D; move chart, and place E 
and F corners at neck marks, rule from E to 
Shoulder measure G; move chart, and place H 
mark at end of shoulder line, and armeye curve 
at dot made at D, rule armeye; move chart, place 
corner J at end of Front measure, mark Bust 
Measure J; move chart, place corner K at end of 
armeye curve, and L edge at mark made at J, 
rule from K to Length of Underarm measure M; 
move chart, draw waist line, place waist line L 
at back end of waist line, and rule Hip curve; 
move chart back, place Mark N at Front end of 
waist line, rule Front hip curve. Now you are 
ready for darts. 

Art. 5. 

Plain Darts for Basque. 

Take Dart Rule, and rule straight line from cor- 
ner of neck to front end of waist line, mark on 



12 

waist line, as far as you wish dart from front, 
(about two inches is nice distance for from 34 to 39 
bust measure); place A corner of dart rule at mark 
on waist line, and mark Dart Taper (which is ob- 
tained by subtracting waist measure from bust 
measure. For instance, if bust is 37 and waist 25, 
the difference is 12; this 12 must be divided into 
two equal parts, which will be 6 — dart taper). 
Now make mark in center of dart, rule straight 
line through center of dart, from top to bot- 
tom, letting liue run parallel with straight 
front line; now place height of dart measure 
(whatever it may be) at front side of dart, let A 
corner of dart rule rest on straight line, and make 
mark at A corner; now place corner B at mark 
made, and let C Edge of Dart Rule rest on front 
side of dart, and rule from corner B down to waist 
line of pattern; now move waist line D, ot Dart 
Rule, to waistline of pattern, and rule straight 
down; now turn dart rule over, and place top cor- 
ner at top of dart, and let C edge rest on rear side 
of dart, rule from top corner to waist line of pat- 
tern; now place waist line of Dart Rule on waist 
line of pattern, and rule straight down, thus com- 
pleting front dart. 

Back Dart. 

You can place back dart as far from front dart 
as you wish (about one inch is nice distance), 
place corner A at mark, and mark dart taper, 
same as front dart, which was 6, thus making 12 
in both darts, which is difference between waist 
and bust measures; make mark in center of dart, 
and draw line straight through dart, from top to 
bottom, letting line run parallel with straight line 
in front dart; now mark height of dart, same as 
in front dart, but half inch higher (in all cases), 
now finish dart same as front dart. 



13 

Art. 6. 

Straight Fronts. 

Commence at neck measure A, and rule to end 
of line 0, make mark, now make dot at Length of 
Front B before moving chart ; mark neck measure 
C, and dot Bust measure P, for Straight Front; 
now move chart and draw straight line from lower 
end of neck line to dot made at Length ot front 
measure B; now finish front in regular way. 

Art. 7. 

For Throwing Bust Curve Higher. 

Draft front in regular way; lay chart so front 
curve is in place on pattern; now, if height of Bust 
Curve is less than 7 inches, mark measure 
Height of bust curve Q, ; now move chart and place 
Bust line R at mark made, and let front edge of 
chart rest on front end of waist line. 

Art. 8 

More Curve for Full Bust Forms. 

Draft front in regular way, but before you rule 
armeye curve,from end of shoulder line to bust dot, 
make dot one quarter of an inch nearer to you; 
finish front, mark Bust curve one quarter of an 
inch out from front; hold top corner and move 
front of chart out to mark, now rule from corner, 
down to mark, hold chart at mark, and move 
bottom edge of chart back to end of waist line, now 
rule down to waist line. 

Art. 9. 

Making Darts Smaller, for Princess Front. 

Draft Front in regular way, measure dart regular 
taper; now, before drawing guide line through 



14 

center, take half inch off, making dart half inch 
narrower; now draw straight line, through center 
of dart, and finish first dart; now do the same 
thiug in back dart, making one inch taken off two 
darts; now mark one inch off back end of waist 
line, now rule from end of Armeye curve, to inch 
mark taken off. Princess darts must come together 
about five inches below waist line. 



Art. 10. 

French Darts. 

French darts are always better than plain darts, 
for basque; they are made the same, except the 
front dart has one taper taken off, and added to 
back, making back dart wider; for instance, if 
dart taper is 6 make front dart 5 and back dart 7. 

Art. 11. 

Proportioning Front and Rear Side Forms. 

Draft pattern of Rear Side Form; now take 
Front Side Form chart; lay Under Arm Measure 
A, at waist line of pattern; now, if B corner of 
chart does not reach the top of pattern, you must 
raise front end of waist line, half inch higher on 
Rear Side Form pattern; now if it is still too long, 
draft Front Side Form pattern, half inch short 
(more or less); let rear end of waist line down 
lower, far enough to make back edge of Front the 
same length as Front edge of Rear Side Form, 
measuring from waist lines up. 

Art. 12. 

One Dart Front. 

Mark front in regular way, until you come to 
u le from K corner to Under Arm Measure M; 



15 

instead of ruling down, make dot at Under Arm 
Measure M; now hold K corner of chart in place, 
and move bottom of chart to you, the width of one 
dart, (measure with dart taper); now rule from K 
corner to Under Arm measure M, now draw waist 
line, and rule Back aud Front Hip curve. Now 
you have cut off one dart; put the other dart in the 
regular way. 

Art. 13. 

Making Back Wider at Waist Line, 

Draft back in regular way; now draft waist line 
half inch further out (or as much as desired); now 
place Corner H at same corner of pattern, and 
Bottom Front edge of chart at end of waist line, 
and rule from Corner JET down to waist line; now 
place waist line of chart on wai3t line of pattern, 
and rule down front for skirt; now what is added 
to back must be taken from side form. 

Draft rear side form in regular way; mark off 
half iuch from rear side, on waist line; now place 
comer B at same corner of pattern, and let front 
edge of chart rest on half inch mark made on 
waist line, now rule from top all the way down. 



Art. 14. 

V. Back. 

Draft back in regular way (waist length only); 
now place corner H of chart to same corner of 
pattern, and push Bottom front Edge of Chart 
back till the waist line is cut entirely off; now rule 
from H down, bringing back to a point, now draft 
pattern of Rear side form, and lay front end of 
waist line of Back to rear end of waist line of 
pattern aud dot width of back; now continue waist 
line to dot, take rear side form, and lay B corner 
to same corner of pattern, and let front side lay on 



16 

end of waist line, rule from B corner all the way 
down, thus adding to Rear Side Form what is 
taken off back. 

Art. 15. 

French Back, 

Fold goods, and lay Back edge of chart on fold 
(preventing seam in the back); dot Back measure 
A, and draft back in regular way; now take rear 
side form and lay B corner at lower end of armeye 
of pattern, and let Front edge of Side form lay on 
edge of back where it would sew; now rule from 
B corner to Waist Measure C; now move back 
end of waist line D up to waist line of pattern, and 
let edge of Side form lay where it would sew; 
mark front end of waist line E; move Side form 
up, so corner i^is at waist line of pattern and bot- 
tom of side form on mark made at E, rule from 
corner Fto waist measure G; place Top corner H 
at end of armeye, and let front edge rest on end of 
waist line, rule from H corner to waist line, thus 
throwing back and rear side Form in one piece, 
with no seam between and no seam in the back. 



Art. 16. 

Bias Darts. 

Bias Darts are more generally used on plump 
forms. The front dart is made iu the regular way, 
then, before making back dart, extend waist line 
(at the back) two inches farther out (or more if de- 
sired); now place K corner at same corner of pat- 
tern, and move chart out to the end of waist line, 
now rule down from K corner to Under Arm 
measure M; move waist line of chart to end of 
line, and rule back hip curve, making it run bias 
on goods; now make back dart, regular width, 
and add two inches to it, making it very wide; 
now finish it up and you have the Bias Dart. 



17 
Art. 17. 

Front Without Darts, for Princess Basques and 
Jackets. 

Make front! same as in Art. 12, only cut both 
darts off at side, instead of one. 

Art. 18. 

Seamless Waist With Shoulder Seam Omy. 

Make front, without darts; now take Front Side 
Form, and lay bust Measure Cat end of armeye, 
and let bottom edge of chart overlap under arm 
line as much at bottom as it does at top, thus 
bringing B corner of chart in place; now rule 
from Bust measure C to B corner, and down to 
Under Arm Measure A; rule waist line across the 
bottom; now take Rear Side Form, and lay Waist 
Measure O at end of Under Arm line, and rule out 
to corner F; now place Waist Measure C at end of 
armeye curve, and let Rear side of chart rest on 
end of waist line, now rule from Waist Measure 
C around corner B, and down to end of waist line; 
now take back, place point of pencil through Bust 
Measure i?and hold pencil there, take dart rule, 
place Corner A at end of front line, and move back 
chart till length of back measure and half the 
waist measure comes together. For instance, if 
Back measure is 16 inches and waist measure is 25 
inches, half of 25 is 12J; the 12£ inches on dart 
rule, and 16 inches on Back chart, must come to- 
gether; now remove dart rule, and rule from back 
measure A to corner B, and round to neck measure 
C, and mark D edge; move chart, and place cor- 
ner F at end of neck line, and let D edge of chart 
parallel with line; now rule from Corner F to 
Shoulder measure O; move chart, place Corner H 
at end of shoulder line, and let Top Front edge of 
H rest on end of armeye curve, and rule, thus 
completing armeye; move chart, and finish waist 



18 

line, thus completing pattern; now cut pattern 
and use double width goods, and lay back of pat- 
tern on fold of goods, and cut. 

This waist can be used for Bolerio and Zouave 
Jackets, by adding two inches to waist measure 
before placing back. 

To make this open back, make front straight, as 
in Art. 6, before putting on Side forms, then cut 
pattern and lay straight front on fold of doubled 
goods. 

Art. 19. 

Columbian Seamless Basque. 

Take Back chart, and draft back in regular way, 
except to make one inch and a half wide at waist, 
and continue the shoulder line the full length of 
char^marking shoulder measure O; now take Front 
chart, and lay neck measure A at neck of Back, 
and let neck measure C rest on line running out 
from shoulder, now rule neck, and down to Front 
Measure B; now dot Bust measure D ; move chart, 
place H mark at length of shoulder of pattern, 
and move armeye curve to Bust dot, and rule; 
place corner I at end of front, and mark Bust 
measure J; take dart rule, and mark off taper for 
both darts; take front, place K corner to end of 
armeye, and let L edge rest on mark where darts 
are cut off, and rule from K to< Under Arm Measure 
M y draw waist line; take Front Side Form, 
lay Bust measure C at end of armeye curve; and let 
chart overlap under arm line, as far at bottom as 
it does at top; now rule from end of armeye around 
B corner, down to Under Arm Measure A. (do not 
draw waist line on this piece); take Rear Side 
Form, lay Waist measure C at end ofarmeye curve, 
hold it there, take the waist measure on dart rule, 
which is 12J, and deduct the width of the back at 
the waist, that is \\ inches, which makes 11 inches 
on dart rule; lay this on front end of waist line, 
and move Side Form till Back measure A comes to 



19 

Corner A on dart rule, rule from end of armeye 
curve, around B corner, down to Back measure; 
move Side Form and finish waist line; cut pattern, 
and lay back on fold of double width goods, and 
cut, making no seams, except Rear Side Form 
seam. 

The same can be made open back, by making 
front straight before putting Front Side gore on 
(see Art 6 for straight front), and lay straight front 
on fold of doubled goods. 

Art. 20. 

The V. Back Seamless Waist — Copyright. 

Draft Columbian seamless waist and lay pattern 
so front is to your left; take Rack chart, and place 
corner Hat lower end of armeye, and i?o^om Front 
edge of Chart at back end of waist line, and rule 
down, bring back to point at waist, thus cutting 
off the inch and a half waist which must be added 
to front by extending waist line one and a half 
inches farther to you ; take Rear Side Form Chart, 
and place corner B at same corner of pattern, and 
let edge of chart rest on end of line, and rule from 
B corner down to waist line; cut pattern, and lay 
straight back on fold of double width goods. 

Make same open back as in Art. 19. 



I 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 





013 973 132 3 



